Hey All,

Thanks for stopping by and checking out our Race Car Setup Information Blog!

What ever kind of car you race or work on...be it a Pure Stock, Hobby Stock Street Stock, 4 banger, Modified, Sportmod, bmod, Late Model, Sprint Car or Super Truck we know you will find helpful information here!

All sanctioning bodies welcome WOO, IMCA, NASCAR USRA, WISSOTA, UMP or any other kind. We are all racers and we can all learn from each other!

Feel free to post questions, comments or helpful advise at anytime.

Most of all ENJOY! Racing is fun so lets keep it that way!!

28th June 2012



We are pleased to tell everyone that the Racers Edge Race Car Setup Books are now available in PRINT!

Here are the direct links to them:

How to Scale Your Race Car -


How to Set the Crossweight in Your Race Car - https://www.createspace.com/3889019

How to Use Tire Management for Speed -


How to Use Weight Management for Speed - https://www.createspace.com/3903183

How to Spring Your race Car for the Win!


How to Set the Camber, Caster & Toe on Your Race Carhttps://www.createspace.com/3919840

Setup Your Race Car – Driver/Crew Chief Communication -  https://www.createspace.com/3919896

How to Shock Your Race Car for the WIN! -


How to Setup any race Car to WIN! – (All 8 books above) -https://www.createspace.com/3895600

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Click on the links and order the book(s) you want before your next race!

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Good Luck at the Track!

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Source: racersedgebooks.com

5th June 2012


Want a FREE Race Car Setup Book from Racers Edge Books?

How many of you have a Nook, Kindle Ipad or Smart Phone?

Thinking about giving away 10 FREE copies of: How to Setup Your Race Car.  Book sells for $9.99 on either site.

The only thing I ask in return is that you leave a review (hopefully positive lol).

What do you think?  Are you interested? 

Join our Facebook Page and comment on the post there.

Facebook Page

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Source: racersedgebooks.com

5th June 2012


Extreme Focus

Extreme Focus
By Tami Eggleston, Ph.D. (c)

"When I’m on the mound, I’m so locked in I don’t even
see the dugout. It’s just me and the glove.  There’s no
way I can hear what’s going on in the bleachers.”
—Major League Baseball pitcher Roger Clemens

Nideffer and Sagal (2001) argue that “Concentration is
often the deciding factor in athletic competition.”
Regardless of the specific sport, attention and
concentration are essential for success.  The
basketball player who needs to focus to make a
free-throw, the ice-skater who has to land a particular
jump, the drag racer who has to have excellent reaction
times to win the race, and the stock car racer who has
to keep concentrated on the task at hand for long
periods of time.  Perhaps, no other mental skill is
more important to the athlete than the ability to
concentrate, focus, and appropriately pay attention.

If you ask any racer (and they are honest!) they will
tell you that they have lost a race because they lost
their focus or they lost their concentration.  In life
in general, we spend a lot of our time on “auto pilot.”
Have you ever had that experience where you are driving
on the highway and you see mile marker # 125 and then
all of a sudden you see mile marker #150 and realize
that you have no conscious recollection of the past 25
miles?!  In our day to day life it doesn’t hurt us too
much to space out while driving on the interstate,
brushing our teeth, or even watching television.
However, what we are teaching our brain is that it is
OK to be lazy and not concentrate on life.
Unfortunately, this mindlessness can transfer to our
athletic endeavors.  In auto racing, even the slightest
lack of concentration or focus can result in a loss or
even in an accident.

Although athletes and coaches use the words attention,
focus, concentration interchangeably and people often
use these words such as saying, “Pay Attention!”
"Focus!" or "Get out there and concentrate!"  Social
sport psychologists have tried to more clearly
articulate these phenomena.  Most sport psychologists
define attention as the ability to concentrate and
direct senses and thought processes to particular
objects and thoughts.  Research on Attention Control
Training (ACT) has articulated the following steps to
help athletes develop selective attention in their

1.) Assess attentional strengths and weaknesses Take a
moment to think about when and where you have good
concentration and when sometimes your concentration
tends to wander.

2.) Assess the attentional demands of a given sport
Each sport is different.  In drag racing, for example,
there has to be a high level of concentration for a
short amount of time (really no longer than 10
seconds!).  In circle track racing, concentration needs
to be extended for a much longer time.

3.) Assess what happens to attention under pressure
situations For many people there is an optimal level of
energy that aids to our concentration.  When we are too
bored like driving on the interstate we may lose
concentration and if we are too stressed (a big race)
we may lose our ability to focus. Strategies for
Improving Concentration, Attention, and Focus

"As fast as the game moves, his mind moves faster.  He
is able to analyze the game frame by frame, as if the
play unfolds in slow motion.  He can sustain
concentration in each frame of the game.   If an
opposing player loses his concentration for a split
second—Bam! Michael grabs the advantage.” -Isaiah
Thomas (1998) Talking about Michael Jordan

With so much at stake in terms of success and safety,
it is only logical that a variety of techniques have
been postulated to help improve concentration and
focus.  In terms of ACT, these techniques would be
implemented after considering the athlete’s strengths
and weaknesses as well as the sport-specific demands.

Some of these strategies are commonly used sport
psychology strategies that are useful for relaxation
and concentration such as teaching athletes to focus on
breathing (there are few better methods to regain and
keep focus than simply to breathe deeply), mentally
rehearse possibilities (use guided imagery to visualize
your driving in different scenarios), use positive
self-talk and cue words (practice using words such as
"breathe, look at the light, relaxed hands, etc.), take
practice seriously, try to be in the here and now and
stay in the present (Vealey, in press).  Moran (1996)
emphasized the importance of a clear pre-performance
routine for attention and the ability to refocus during
competition.  Many sport psychologists have found that
having a clear routine before, during, and after a race
could help you keep your focus.  Sugarman (1999)
summarized more attention and concentration specific
activities in her book Winning The Mental Way.  One
activity that she suggested is doing activities
blindfolded or with non-dominant hands.  For example,
get in your race car blindfolded and visualize driving,
turing on and off switches, shifting, etc.  This forces
your brain to pay attention without visual cues.  Doing
things with your non-dominant hand also forces you to
use different brain circuitry.  Finally many auto
racers say that playing video games can help improve
their overall level of concentration.

During this off-season time, in addition to working on
the race car, maybe it is time to tune-up the driver’s
concentration.  Pick a couple of the above activities
(e.g., breathing, visual imagery, practicing while
blindfolded) to work on your concentration.  Also make
an effort to live your day to day life more mindful,
when you feel your concentration starting to wander, be
in control of it by pulling your brain back into focus.
When you need to relax, tell your brain it can wander
and relax, but then work on having the ability to
control your consciousness.  By using this off-season
to work on some concentration skills you will not only
improve your auto racing abilities, but you may also
find that you are a bit more successful with your
career and your relationships as well.

I have summarized the literature on attention and
concentration with the following acronym:

F=Fuel your desire—Know your motivation and
goals—keep up the passion

O=Optimal energy—Know appropriate arousal/relaxation
levels for best performance

C=Consistency—Know the importance of practice and

U=Understand your natural strengths and areas of

S=Shift Gears—Know when you need to mentally shift
gears and work on controlling your attention.

"Do not dwell in the past; do not dream of the future,
concentrate the mind on the present moment.” -Buddha
For more driving tips - Click Here

Our Website - Racers Edge Books

Tagged: Racecarrace carracers edgerace car drivingdriving tipsnascarimcastock car racingrace car setup

5th June 2012


Six Sponsorship Mistakes to Avoid

By Milt Gedo, CRE Sports Marketing (c)

During my 10+ years involved in motorsports
sponsorship, I have seen racers commit just about every
mistake known to man, and I’ve committed a few myself.
While the title for this article could easily be “100
Sponsorship Mistakes to Avoid”, I’ve decided to narrow
it down to the “Top 6” sponsorship mistakes that I see
committed most often.  See how many of these mistakes
you, or someone you know, have committed in the past:

1) Offer the wrong actions or NO actions to a potential
sponsor. When discussing sponsorship, racers need to
realize that “actions” are what they and their race
team have to “sell” to a sponsor.  An action ranges
from the simple display of the sponsor name/logo on the
race car all the way to extravagant hospitality
functions, and everything in-between.  Any racer who is
SERIOUS about sponsorship should have an “inventory” of
at least 100 different actions they can offer to a
potential sponsor. When approaching a company for
sponsorship, it is likely they will only be interested
in 5-10 of the 100+ actions you offer as a race team.
Your job is to discover which actions your potential
sponsor is interested in… then list those actions,
and ONLY those actions in your marketing proposal.
When your prospect reads your proposal, you want a
positive reaction from EVERYTHING they read… that’s
why it’s critical to offer the RIGHT actions to a
potential sponsor! I am always surprised at how many
racers will actually approach a sponsor and offer NO
actions!  In this day of fierce competition for
sponsorship dollars, don’t come to the gunfight without
a gun.  If you are not willing to offer any actions
that have VALUE to a sponsor, you need to accept the
fact you will NEVER be a sponsored racer.

2) Target the Wrong Companies for Sponsorship. Not
every company is a good “fit” for motorsports
sponsorship.  There are many deciding factors, but two
biggies are demographics (who does the company sell
to?) and the size of their marketing budget.  If you
approach a company for sponsorship whose target
demographic is overweight, middle-aged women, you
probably will NOT get a sponsorship from them,
regardless of whom you “know” or how good your
presentation is.  Why?  Because motorsports generally
DOES NOT REACH that demographic… period.  Reread the
previous sentence until it makes sense to you.  The
smart racer finds companies whose demographics closely
mirror the motorsports demographic, and pursues them
for sponsorship. The second consideration is budget
size.  It makes no sense to pursue a company, even if
they are the “perfect company for motorsports”, if
their marketing budget cannot support your sponsorship.
Perhaps that company would be better as an associate
sponsor than a major sponsor.  When dealing with
budgets, realize you will probably not get more than
about 5% of the total marketing budget for your
sponsorship.  So if you’re looking for a $50,000
sponsorship, you need to be targeting companies with a
marketing budget of about $1,000,000 (because 5% of 1
million is 50k).

3) Over-Value Your Race Team and/or Actions. Although
most racers seem to under-value their actions, I have
seen some proposals where the opposite is true.  The
rule of thumb is:  Don’t be greedy… marketing people
are NOT dumb!  A racer I know approached a
multi-billion dollar, worldwide company for
sponsorship… and tried to get $20k for merely placing
their logo on the side of his Sportsman race car.
Needless to say, he left the meeting empty-handed.
Most marketing departments see PLENTY of proposals from
racers and race teams, so they have a good feel for
what various actions are worth.  Price your sponsorship
fairly and reasonably… don’t try to buy your vacation
home in Rio on the back of your sponsor!

4) Set Your Racing Budget Too Low. In the excitement
and eagerness to sign a sponsor, many racers will
accept an offer for less money… without adjusting
their actions!  This is a big mistake.  If you have
priced your program fairly, and you are offered less
money for sponsorship, there is NO WAY you can complete
all the actions you proposed for less money.  The
proper way to handle this situation is to explain to
your sponsor that you’re happy to work within their
budget, however you will need to adjust the actions
offered in order to “fit” your program to their budget.
You are dealing with business professionals, and they
don’t expect to get anything for “free”.

5) Mail UNSOLICITED Materials and Proposals. Many
racers will spend a lot of time, money and effort to
create a professional proposal… and then they mail it
to someone who NEVER ASKED TO SEE IT!  This has never
made sense to me.  You are dealing with busy executives
who probably work 60 hours per week, and do not have
time to read all the UNSOLICITED mail that crosses
their desks… no matter how professional it looks.
There is another word for unsolicited mail:  Junk Mail!
What do YOU do with all the unsolicited mail you get
at home or work?  Sadly, your $50 unsolicited proposal
will meet with the same fate when it hits the desk of a
busy executive. The best way to convert your
unsolicited proposal to a solicited proposal is to call
someone in the marketing department of your prospective
sponsor, and engage them in a conversation about what
you do and how it might “fit in” with their marketing
needs.  At some point, if you’ve done your homework and
targeted a company that is a good “fit” for
motorsports, they’ll ask for more information or to
"see something in writing".  Now when you send your
proposal to this person, they’ll be expecting it…
maybe even looking for it.  The chance of having your
proposal read increases dramatically by using this

6) Give Up Too Soon! Although I’m a racer myself, I
sometimes don’t understand my fellow racers at all.  I
know racers who will lose in the first round, or fail
to qualify for a race, for weeks and months on end…
yet they always come back to try again.  If only most
racers would show that same dogged determination when
it comes to sponsorship!  Unfortunately, many racers
will get one or two rejections or get a few doors
slammed in their face, and they’ll say, “I can’t find a
sponsor… it’s not meant to be.”  Where is that
never-say-die attitude that will drive the very same
racer to come back, week after week, until he becomes a
successful driver?  Finding a sponsor is not easy
work… if it was, everybody would have a sponsor!  But
it’s NOT impossible either.  When you get a door
slammed in your face, or another rejection letter, or a
phone hung up in your ear, remember this:  The NEXT
contact you make might be THE ONE.  And if you quit
now, another racer who had enough perseverance to make
ONE MORE CALL, will end up with your sponsor.  Think
about it!
For more sponsorship info: Click Here

Tagged: Racecarrace car setuprace car chassisRace car sponsorshipnascarimca

16th February 2012

Post with 1 note

How To Scale Your Race Car (Part 6 of 7)

By Jon Roetman (c) - Author of “The Racers Edge Series” Race Car Setup Books Taken from the “How to Scale Your Race Car” Book

Important Points to Remember

1. Each time you make an adjustment, bounce the car and rock each corner to settle the springs. This will give you the most accurate readings. It is best to do this on the floor or on the spacers you have made to go behind each scale pad.

2. Several factors will effect cross weight percentage. It’s very important what the effect is so you can make accurate adjustments for changing track conditions. Three factors will affect weight percentages caster, stagger and fuel load.

· Caster

As the wheels are turned, caster will cause your ride heights to change, which also altars your cross weight. To check this you can turn the front wheels to the right or to the left while the car is on the scales. This will show you exactly how much the cross weight changes due to caster.

· Stagger

Stagger also affects your cars ride height. Right rear stagger raises the right rear ride height, which also reduces your cross weight percentage. The only way to avoid this change in cross weight is to readjust the ride height. Stagger and reduced cross weight will reduce a push condition (car will not turn in corners) Front stagger increases right front ride height, which does just the opposite as the rear, and increases your cross weight percentage. Remember these adjustments when adjusting your car.

· Fuel Load

Fuel is a transient weight. As the race goes on, fuel is being burned up, thus affecting your race cars handling. The rear weight percentage is effected the most and the left side and cross weight percentages may also be effected. It is very important to know how much effect there is so you can make good setup choices before you race. When do you want your race car to run the fastest? At the start, at the end or some type of compromise, knowing how fuel load affects your race cars percentages will help you find the best set up for your car. If you run at a track that has qualifying laps, fuel load will also help you find a fast qualifying set up.

By determining how these three factors affect weight percentages, you can gain valuable clues to find the best set up for your race car.

Read our – “How to Set Camber Caster Toe” book for more detailed information.

Next Post - Part 7 - All Done Finally!

You can get a FREE copy of How to Scale Your Race Car and other race car setup information by visiting our website at www.racersedgebooks.com or www.jonroetman.com

Tagged: Racecarrace carracers edgerace car setupracers edge booksRace Car ScalesJon RoetmanWissotawww.racersedgebooks.comimcaimca modifiedImca Stock CarImca SportmodIMCA Hobby StockDirt Late ModelDirt Track Racingdirt modifiedDirt Race CarDirt Stock Carhow to racehobby stocknascarstock car racingsprint carSprint Cupstock carsportmodScale race car

Source: racersedgebooks.com

16th February 2012


How To Scale Your Race Car (Part 5 of 7)

By Jon Roetman (c) - Author of “The Racers Edge Series” Race Car Setup Books Taken from the “How to Scale Your Race Car” Book

Adjusting the Weights

Left Side and Rear Adjustments: There is only one way to change left side and rear weight percentages. To change these weights you must move or add weight in the car. Examples of this are – adding ballast or weight and/or moving the battery to a different location. Wheel offset (location of the wheel and tire in and out from the chassis) can be used to change the left side weight. More back spacing (moving tire in) on the right side and less

(moving tire out) on the left will move weight to the left side. Adding fuel will also change the left side and rear weights. Be careful when doing this: Remember to set your fuel level to the chassis manufactures recommended level. Varying from this a little to get the correct weights will work, but use it as a last resort.

Cross Weight Adjustments: The only way to change cross weight percentage is to change ride height. By changing cross weight you will not change left side or rear weight. The best way to change cross weight is to make small ride height adjustments at each wheel, rather than one large adjustment at one wheel.

When you raise the ride height at one corner (this is also referred to as “putting in a round of wedge” or “putting a turn in”) you are adding weight to that corner and the diagonally opposite corner, and also reducing the weight at the other two corners. Here is an example: If you want to increase the cross weight percentage, raise the right front and left rear ride heights and lower the left front and right rear ride heights. If you want to decrease cross weight just do the opposite.

Just make sure your ride height adjustments do not cause your cars ride heights to severely exceed your manufacturers ride height settings.

Once you have found the desired cross, left and rear weights, record the ride heights each wheel weight and all percentages for future reference. Do this after each change you make.

Next Post - Part 6- Important Points to Remember

You can get a FREE copy of How to Scale Your Race Car and other race car setup information by visiting our website at www.racersedgebooks.com or www.jonroetman.com

Tagged: Racecarrace carracers edgerace car setupracers edge booksRace Car ScalesWissotawww.racersedgebooks.comUMPUSACusrausmtsimcaimca modifiedImca Stock CarImca SportmodIMCA Hobby Stockstock car racingsprint carSprint Cupstock carsprintcarsportmodScale race carDirt Late ModelDirt Track Racingdirt modifiedDirt Race CarDirt Stock Carf

Source: racersedgebooks.com

1st February 2012


How To Scale Your Race Car (Part 4 of 7)

By Jon Roetman (c) - Author of “The Racers Edge Series” Race Car Setup Books Taken from the “How to Scale Your Race Car” Book

Finally, Let’s Scale the Car!

Everything is checked and everything is set.  Zero the scale pads and roll your car on to them.

Next - before taking your scale readings.  The race car ride heights must be set.  Set the ride heights to your chassis manufacturer’s recommended settings.  Once again, if you built your own car or do not know who did manufacture your car, check with some of the other racers and see what they are setting their ride heights at.  If you ask more than one driver, (I would suggest asking as many as you can) you are not going to get all the same answers.  Just take an average of what you are told and set your cars ride heights accordingly.  Then over the next few weeks try to make small adjustments to your ride heights to figure out exactly what works for you and your race car.

Since you are setting ride heights while the car is on the scales make sure you add in the height of the scale pad to the ride height of your car.  Do this on top of the scale pads, as they will settle as the car rests on top of them. 


In this picture, we have the scale pad on the bottom and your cars frame rail on the top.  The red box represents the manufacturers ride height.  The blue box is the height of your scale pad.  When setting ride heights on the scale pads you must remember to add the scale height (blue box) to the recommended ride height (red box) This way when you are done scaling and take your car off the scales your ride heights will be exactly where you want them to be in relation to the ground. 

Next Post - Part 5 - Adjusting The Weights

You can get a FREE copy of How to Scale Your Race Car and other race car setup information by visiting our website at www.racersedgebooks.com or www.jonroetman.com

Tagged: Racecarrace carracers edgerace car setupracers edge booksRace Car Scalesimcaimca modifiedImca Stock CarImca SportmodIMCA Hobby StocknascarWissotaUMPUSACusrausmtsDirt Late ModelDirt Track Racingdirt modifiedDirt Race CarDirt Stock CarIntercomplate modelstock car racingsprint carSprint Cupstock carsprintcarsportmod

Source: racersedgebooks.com

23rd January 2012


How To Scale Your Race Car (Part 3 of 7)

By Jon Roetman (c) - Author of “The Racers Edge Series” Race Car Setup Books Taken from the “How to Scale Your Race Car” Book

Pre-scaling your race car

Ok, your scale pads are level and you have your ramps or blocks in place.

Roll the car on the scale pads and start adjusting right? Not Quite Yet, there is a short list of things that need to be done before rolling your race car on to the scales.

1. Set each tire pressure and record it – set each tire to the same pressure that you do at the race track.

2. Measure tire stagger or roll-out – roll-out is the circumference around the tire. (Do this only after setting tire pressure) After you measure each tire the difference between the right and left side tires is called stagger. Tire pressures change tire circumference (stagger) and stagger changes ride height. Ride height (more on this in a little bit) in turn will change cross weight readings.

3. Fill the fuel cell to your chassis manufacturers recommended level for scaling – if your manufacturer has no recommended level or if you built you chassis yourself, put the same amount of fuel in the fuel cell as you normally would before you go out on the race track. Make note of this so you can always scale the car with this amount in the fuel cell.

4. Install everything on the car in the position it will be in under racing conditions – Examples: sheet metal, weights, etc…

5. Make sure all fluids are full – Oil, Anti-freeze/water, Brake and Clutch reservoir etc.

6. Un-hook one end on all four shocks so your race car chassis is free – Disconnecting the shocks from the chassis is important, because they can have enough resistance to prevent all the weight from “settling down” as it would under racing conditions and the effects of your chassis adjustments will be masked.

7. Check for binds in the suspension – While keeping the suspension lubricated is a great maintenance idea it doesn’t prevent bent, damaged or worn out parts from binding. A small bind at a single point in the suspension can have dramatic effects on the wheel weights displayed by the scales.

With or Without the Driver

Ever since the idea of using scales to set up a race car there has been an on going debate over scaling your race car with or with out the driver in the car. Both sides of this on going debate do have valid points, but one point always seems to win out on both sides. Scale your race car the same way each and every time, with or with out the driver. If you are scaling your car to the recommended chassis manufacturer’s specs, then the answer is simple. Scale your race car the way they tell you to. Your chassis manufacturer has a ton more experience than you do. They have the hours on the track and have done miles and miles research. So, do it the way they do.

Next Post - Part 4 - Finally, Let’s Scale the Car!

You can get a FREE copy of How to Scale Your Race Car by visiting our website at www.racersedgebooks.com or www.jonroetman.com

Tagged: Racecarrace carracers edgerace car setupracers edge booksRace Car ScalesDirt Late ModelDirt Track Racingdirt modifiedDirt Race CarDirt Stock CarJon Roetmanimcaimca modifiedImca Stock CarImca SportmodIMCA Hobby StockWissotaUMPUSACUSRAUSMTSNascarhow to racehobby stocksstock car racingstock carsportmodScale race car

Source: racersedgebooks.com

30th December 2011

Post with 14 notes

How to Scale Your Race Car (Part 2 of 7)

By Jon Roetman (c) - Author of “The Racers Edge Series” Race Car Setup Books

Taken from the “How to Scale Your Race Car” Book

Get Them Level


Ok, lets get your scale pads level and get to the exciting part, actually scaling your car.


The first thing you need to do is pick out an area in your garage or race shop to setup the scales.  Make sure this area has enough room for making adjustments to your car, jacks, scales and other equipment you may need when scaling. 



Next, mark the spot where all four scale pads will sit.  By marking each spot, you will be able to return each pad to the exact same spot every time you scale your car.  (Consistency, Remember)  By doing this it will ensure that you will have consistent readings every time you scale your car.  This will also prevent having to repeat the leveling process every time you scale your car.  Being consistent is crucial! How can you be confident in your scale readings if you don’t know if the angle of the car is the same as the last time you scaled it?


The ONLY way to ensure consistency is to have all four scale pads level with each other every time you scale your race car.  Only then can you be confident with consistent sales readings each and every time you scale your race car.


Ok, you have your spot to scale your car and you have marked the spot where each scale pad will sit with tape or paint.


It’s time to level the pads.  (Remember you only have to do this one time)  The pads should be leveled independently and in relation with the other scale pads.  Setting the car one inch one way or the other may make as much difference as a round or two on the weight jack screw.


A laser level with the beam turned horizontal is a great way to level your scale pads.  Just go around each of the four sides of the scale pads and shoot a beam across the pads.  When the beam touches the pads evenly all the way across you know you have them level.  This is a quick and easy way to level your pads.


If a laser level is not available try this next method.  It’s a little more time consuming but will get the job done just as well.

 String layout on scale pads

Tape a string to the center front of the left or right side scale pads.  Run it across the top of the pad to the center of the farthest edge on the adjacent scale pad.  Pull it snug and tape the string to the edge.  Do the same to the side of that scale pad to the side of the opposite scale pad.  Repeat this process until you have a box of string connecting all four scale pads and forming an X dissecting the top of each scale pad from front to rear and side to side. 

This is how your scale pad setup should look as you look at it from the top view. Note: the bold marks to the outside of each of the scale pads. This would be your tape or paint on the floor to mark where your scale pads should be placed every time you scale.


Now, look carefully along the string, it should rest lightly across each pad without any space.  If you find a pad or pads with a gap between the string and the pad, leave it for now.  These are the pads that need to be raised. 

Incorrect View #1 


This is an incorrect view of how the string should lay across the top of the scale pad.  Notice the gap between the string and scale pad on the right side.  This scale pad needs to be raised in order be leveled with the scale pad to the right.


 Correct View

This is the correct view of how the string should lay across the top of the scale pad.  Notice there is NO gap between the string and the scale pad.  This scale pad is level with the scale pad to the right.




Take a look at the opposing scale pad where the string drops sharply off the edge.  This is probably the high pad. 

 Incorrect View #2

This is an incorrect view of how the string should lay across the top of the scale pad.  Notice the sharp drop in the string on the right side of the scale pad.  This scale pad is higher than the scale pad to the right.



Take a carpenters level and level the high pad from front to rear and side to side using shims.  Be careful to support all four corners so the scale pad does not rock. 


If the string still drops off the edge of the scale pad, it’s time to raise the other three scale pads and level them.  Once they are leveled, with a carpenter’s level, from front to back and side to side, slide shims under the whole pad until the string lies evenly across the scale pad.  Vinyl floor tiles work great as shims to raise your whole scale pad.  Doing this should bring the string even on the top of the high scale pad as well. 


Be sure to take notes or mark your shims for each corner so these steps can be quickly and easily duplicated every time you scale your race car in the future.   


A Quick Tip:


Instead of jacking your race car up and setting it down on the scale pads, you may want to consider placing some sort of ramp or block behind each of the scale pads.  They don’t have to be anything special, just something to set the car on or roll the car up on to the scale pads. Just make sure that whatever you use that when in place they are not touching the scale pad.  If it is touching the scale pad it will throw off your readings.  These ramps or blocks are also great when making adjustments to your race car.  Roll the car back, make your adjustments, zero the scale pads and roll the car back on the scales. 


You can construct your own ramps or blocks out of wood, steel, aluminum or what ever you want.  You can also purchase these from any of the big name race parts suppliers or maybe even your local race parts supplier. 


If you are looking for something cheap (racers are always on a budget, right?) and easy, cut a 2X10 or 2X12 piece of wood into 4 3-foot sections.  The wood pieces are not quite as tall as your scale pads but still work great and two people can easily roll the car on and off the scale pads. 


Next Post - Part 3 - Pre-Scaling Your Race Car

You can get a FREE copy of How to Scale Your Race Car by visiting our website at www.racersedgebooks.com or www.jonroetman.com


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Source: racersedgebooks.com

16th December 2011

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How to Scale Your Race Car (Part 1 of 7)

 By Jon Roetman (c) - Author of “The Racers Edge Series” Race Car Setup Books

Taken from the “How to Scale Your Race Car” Book



Before scaling your car the one utmost important thing to remember is consistency! Yes, consistency……. meaning you absolutely must be consistent every time you scale your race car.


Lets get into a little more detail about this consistency thing.  Using scales to set up your racecar is an excellent idea that allows you, the racer, to understand and see the effects of adjustments made to the car/chassis.  Scales are able to sense exactly what is placed on them; they are not however able to sense what is below them.  In other words scales are not able to tell if they are completely level or level with each other nor are they able to level themselves or level themselves with each other.


Not scaling your racecar on a level surface will alter the amount of weight each wheel carries and has proven time and time again to have a great effect on handling.  The surface you are going to scale your car on may “look” level but in reality could be slanted a ½ inch or more.  A ½ inch my not seem like much but span that over the length of your race car and who knows how much it could be off!

Next Post - Part 2 - Get them Level

If you want a FREE copy of “How to Scale Your Race Car” Go to our webiste at www.racersedgebooks.com and click on the newsletter & FREE eBook page.




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Source: racersedgebooks.com